The Environmentalist
SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD

Bay Area fishers serve up seafood staples while keeping marine health in focus.

Bay Area fishers serve up seafood staples while keeping marine health in focus.

8 minute read

Pillar Point Harbor, Half Moon Bay, California

Purchasing seafood is synonymous with long grocery aisles, rows of freezers, and plastic packages of breaded, battered, or fried filets of varying quality. Beyond listing the country of origin and whether it’s wild-caught or farm-raised, information on the packages are scarce, leaving the buyer largely in the dark. While budget-friendly, one often pays for these products with the price of the unknown.

This leaves Bay Area shoppers with the decision: mysteriously cheap or educationally pricier?

In 2024, the marine non-profit Oceana determined that roughly three-quarters of industrial fishing operations remain undisclosed. Without careful regulation, large-scale fishing fleets can decimate fish populations and ocean habitats through wasteful overcatch or scraping trawling nets across the seafloor. Similarly, irresponsible decisions to place shellfish farms in locations with high ecological significance endanger the marine environments they depend on.

From a business standpoint, choosing not to publicize these harmful practices makes sense. Customers may balk on their seafood purchases knowing that the company providing it has destroyed a coral reef or netted endangered species while harvesting. But the lack of disclosure and responsibility from fishing operations has created unease around seafood, leaving a significant portion of customers without any real insight into where their fish and shellfish were harvested and processed.

In an effort to combat the lack of consumer knowledge, local seafood sellers from Tomales Bay down to Half Moon Bay have stepped up their efforts to communicate how and where they source their products. In an environment where transparency and sustainability in seafood sourcing remains as opaque as a well-cooked bass, these local seafood operations give residents access to fresh fish and shellfish without all the anxieties, making them vital to the community.

The integrity demonstrated by a variety of local seafood businesses across the Bay comes as a breath of fresh air. The clarity between buyer and seller goes beyond obligation: it’s a point of pride. There’s an emphasis on “ensuring customers know exactly where and how their oysters are grown,” Martin Seiler, manager and HACCP coordinator at Tomales Bay Oyster Company, explains.

Tomales Bay Oyster Company, an oyster farm and retailer situated on the coast of Marin County, makes a point to provide customers with as much information as they can about the food they purchase. This might include harvest dates and specific growing areas so their oysters can be traced directly back to the exact location they were grown. Seiler also iterated that customers can visit their farm and see for themselves how the oysters are harvested and processed if they’d prefer. A look at the rows of shellfish growing in the bay allows visitors to purchase with confidence and leave satisfied.

Dream Catcher parked at Pillar Point Harbor, Half Moon Bay, California

Other local sellers provide similar opportunities, like Hog Island Oyster Company, located nearby in Marshall, CA.

“We do 3000 people's worth of educational programs a year. I did 1000 donated tours for educational students, from grad students to K-12 students, in the last year, and then we sold an additional couple 1000 tours to people who just want to get more into it,”says Gary Fleener, Science, Education, & Policy Director at Hog Island.

Of course, seafood transparency means very little if the practices and sourcing remain environmentally destructive. Fortunately, many local operations, similar to Hog Island Oyster Company, have made conscious efforts to ensure that their methods work in tandem with natural marine systems instead of against them.

Fleener, who served as an associate professor of ecology at Principia College before his work with Hog Island, highlights how “science and ecology have been at the root since the start of the company.” The company’s founders, John Finger and Terry Sawyer, were both established marine biologists before they began their first five-acre oyster farm in 1983; their scientific background keeps Hog Island Oyster Company rooted in sustainability work.

This foundation includes a commitment to keeping the ecosystems they rely on healthy by preventing overuse. Fleener explains how the regulations around their farm remove that fear.

“In the international waters of the deep sea, there's supposed to be international management, but sometimes there isn’t,” he said in a discussion on deep-sea fish harvests. “Shellfish aquaculture in California and the United States is heavily supervised, managed, regulated, so there's very little risk.”

International deep sea fishing operations have the possibility of capturing fish at a rate faster than their populations can replenish, significantly damaging aquatic ecosystems. Hog Island’s dutiful compliance with federal regulations allows for their harvests to be done sustainably and mindfully, protecting the waters they use for future usage, not just for themselves, but for all.For many local seafood producers, pollution reduction is another way of ensuring accountability for their harvest methods. Tomales Bay Oyster Company carries out “cleanup efforts aimed at reducing aquaculture gear and debris that may break loose from growing systems,”says Seiler.

Through these projects and others, seafood producers like Tomales Bay reduce their impacts on the marine environment, giving customers peace of mind knowing their food won’t just be more garbage in the ocean.

Crabs being prepared to be released back into the ocean for a Buddhist ritual

Hog Island tackles pollution prevention by minimizing the carbon emissions that go into their products, especially throughout their seafood processing. “The carbon footprint around processing is not particularly regulated. That's a market-driven situation”, Fleener explains. “If the labor savings are great enough to merit the emissions of shipping something far away, that's what happens.” At Hog Island, however, there’s a commitment to keep processing done in-house.

“Products that we grow ourselves, oysters, are all done in house. In the case of fish, because we have restaurants and we have the opportunity to diversify. We buy fish primarily from local and regional boats. And then increasingly, we process them in-house for ourselves.” Doing so allows them to exert control over their own operations, reduce their carbon footprint, and ensure their work meets the high standards they set for themselves.

“It all points toward the importance and the value of knowing where our food comes from and knowing that journey from ocean to table, like with locally farmed mussels, seaweeds, or oysters,” he says.

This commitment of many local Bay Area seafood businesses to ecological mindfulness in their processes is part of a larger dedication to the human communities around them.

For Hog Island, that’s come through “direct engagement with the people that are interested in our ocean foods,” says Fleener. In the 40 years since their founding, they have forged ties to local seafood sellers, scientists, restaurants, and customers. Whether it’s the oysters they sell to San Francisco’s renowned Anchovy Bar or their close ties to University of California, Davis’s aquaculture researchers who use their farms for water testing, Hog Island and similar seafood providers go beyond that of the typical seller.

“We're a little unusual and fortunate that we have our own restaurants, and we engage a half million people a year simply through our direct to consumer business model,” Fleener explained, reaffirming Hog Island’s unique position. It’s their multi-pronged approach to developing relationships with their community that helps drive their success.

Even in Berkeley, the presence of small businesses with a zeal for giving their neighbors access to fresh seafood is strong. The Little Fish Company, a mom and pop endeavor, has been a Berkeley Farmers Market mainstay, slinging up wild-caught northern halibut, salmon, and Dungeness crab to Saturday visitors with promises of fresh flavor and anxiety-free sourcing.

“We try to involve customers in the process as much as possible, including offloads that are live from the boat and opportunities for questions and answers from folks for the crew,”said Laura Little, one half of the original Little Fish team.

The opportunities for customers to get information directly from the fishers who caught their seafood builds trust between buyer and seller. It transforms the seafood buying experience from one of obscurity to one of clarity.

With the wide number of seafood businesses in the greater Bay Area that commit themselves to transparency, sustainability, and public service, shopping locally is a surefire way to make informed purchases about the fish and shellfish you purchase.

In the midst of shutting down San Francisco’s Great Highway to make way for new green spaces, conversation has circled around issues of accessibility, urban planning, transportation challenges. This raises an important question: Is the best way to create more green space through industrialization and commodification of nature for human experience?

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